...this is how you will look if you overdo the Anti-Seize thing!
Anti-Seize 7/03/R. Kwas
As often as I use and recommend the use of Anti-Seize (AS), the reader might think I sell the stuff! This is not the case...it's just that after having had to deal with lots of rusted hardware on vintage Volvos, and discovering this marvelous stuff of tribology, and its advantages a long time ago, I now wouldn't even think of starting any work without having it on hand. Naturally, "your results may vary" ... also, a word of Caution:
...this is how you will look if you overdo the Anti-Seize thing!
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AS formulations range from copper to nickel to graphite and combinations thereof, and a number of suppliers have fine AS products. Although I prefer the graphite formulations, I believe just about any formulation will bring great benefits to the vintage Volvo wrencher. For a general overview of Loctite's various Anti-Seize formulations, see: http://www.loctite.com/pdf/lt3355c_MRO_Anti-Seize.pdf [This page is currently off line or has been relocated to elsewhere on their site...so I will leave the link here for a while...maybe they will be back...in the mean time, there's plenty of other reading available!]
The last time I Googled on "Anti-Seize", there were upwards of 15,000 hits, so you could surf, and read about it, 'till the cows came home...but so that you don't have to, I've put together what I believe to be the points of interest here.
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Specific Application Notes:
Noncritical fasteners: Apply generous amounts, or at least enough to assure complete thread coverage, on either threads of bolt, or into threads of a blind hole.
Critical Fasteners (Headbolts, Lugnuts): Assure complete coverage of clean threads, and also bearing surface of fastener head, or nut as may be the case. Torque to the "oiled bolt" torque specified. In cases where "oiled bolt" is not specified, it must be presumed that the specification given is for "dry" fastener, and so torque should be decreased by the "K-Factor", see below. In the case of standard lugnuts, the threads and also the conical mating surface, which serves to align the wheel should be treated.
High bearing force (low/zero velocity) bearing surfaces (SU jets, ball and socket carb linkages, drive-shaft spline joint, Delrin upper-control arm bushings): Assures smooth and silent movement. Grease alone gets displaced by the high bearing forces...the particulates of AS don't...they stay around and keep lubing...it's a wonderful thing!
Prevention of Galvanic Corrosion (Girling manual Brake adjustors, alloy wheel to steel drum, sparkplugs in aluminum heads): Apply to threads of "wedge-pin" and wedges after cleaning away galvanic corrosion products. I like to fill the entire "wedge-pin"/"wedge" contact volume...it will act as a reservoir as the "wedge-pin" is moved under later adjustments. Alloy wheel on steel drums will also act under galvanic corrosion forces. A thin film it the contact areas prevents this. On later aluminum heads, the sparkplug threads can be severely damaged...totally preventable when AS is used on the threads (Caution: Extra care should be used in the application not to get the [conductive] particulates near the electrode of the plug). On older iron heads, damaged threads are less of a problem, but since sparkplugs are periodically replaced, a dab will nicely protect the threads from wear and allow a smooth and positive fastening.
Lubrication of control cables (Choke, Emergency-Brake, Clutch): Thin out to pouring consistency, and pour into cable while catching any mess. This is obviously a lot easier to do when cables are out of vehicle...that is why I prelube replacement e-brake and clutch cables even before their first installation (hold into a U shape, pour in mix, let dry, install...kind-of like: Lather, rinse, repeat...except a lot messier!).
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About the mess... a lot of professional mechanics don't use AS because it is messy. In the shop, they figure they don't need it, as they typically also use air tools, which give a huge force advantage sure to remove any fastener (if not remove by loosening, then remove by breaking). Then again, they probably are not going to be the ones needing to loosen the same bolt in ten years...and they are certainly not going to be around with that air-wrench when for instance, you get a flat tire on the road somewhere, and need to remove the wheel with just the on-board tools. Insist on AS on luggies and wheel mating surfaces...it can make the difference between being able to change a flat or not. For cleaning up, waterless hand cleaners are quite effective to keep one from looking like the guy above...
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Because of AS' lubricity (where'zat?), it is possible, actually likely, that a higher fastener torque will be achieved when tightening fasteners. Normally this is not a problem, but on critical fasteners, where torque is measured, and a specified torque is applied, a K-factor adjustment should be made (typically 10-15 % less).
Treated vs. untreated
Source: Loctite Corp. Product Data Sheet Graphite, Aluminum, Copper AS Formula 767, Aug. 87
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Reprint of Brickboard my "Broken Headbolt" thread posting : http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=661307
K-factor application...Most fasteners are torqued on using the
judgment of the mechanic and not a torque gauge *...but in
the case of important headbolts, torque specs are given oiled...and this
simplifies things tremendously!
I've spoken with Rich L., Application Engineer with Loctite (he will send me
some bolt tension charts (NLA) for the graphite containing formulations of C5A,
Silver, and Nickel AS products, which relate the dry torques to the lubed
torques...I'll evaluate this when I get it and put something together for SwEm
site Service Notes page) but he confirmed the following: For headbolts, for
which fastening torques are specified for oiled bolts, it is NOT necessary to
adjust (decrease) the dry torquespec given, since "lubed by oil" can pretty much
be, for the purpose of this discussion, considered to be equal to, "lubed by
AS". Soooooooo, torque away...to the numbers given!...Phil's procedure under the
"Engine Assembly/Rebuild Tips Request" post sound just fine to me!
* torque gauge: a gauge which measures the torque applied to a fastener. ANY
wrench is a "torque wrench", since it applies torque...it's a pet peeve of
mine...I just refuse to use and perpetuate unclear nomenclature.
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Special thanks to Loctite Applications Engineer: Rich Lockery Loctite Technical Information Service 800-562-8483 #3, for supplying us with specific Product Data Sheets. Below is a graph of interest. Note the "Nickel" AS formulation No. 771 also contains graphite, my preferred ingredient .
Oiled vs. AS
Source: Loctite Corp. Product Data Sheet Nickel AS Formula 771, Oct. 84
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